Having taken advantage of my parents hospitality we had
plans for an early start driving the 25 miles from there to Edale. However, we
were thwarted by an errant alarm setting and overslept. Only by 20 minutes or so and that misfortune
turned to our advantage as the heavens opened up against the forecast whilst on
route. I left mum and dad’s house wearing shorts much to the amusement of our
hosts but they will be pleased to hear that shorts were quickly replaced by
more substantial and warmer trousers at Edale. Shorts would have been a bad
idea.
I left the car park in Edale at about 10:00am leaving
Catherine to get her bike sorted and set off on her own adventure. Whilst the rain had stopped by the time we
arrived in Edale it was short respite and I was soon donning waterproofs
despite it being rather warm. This rain was not in the forecast; special
Pennine Way rain, I think.
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The Naggs Head Pub, where the Pennine Way starts. Note the Kinder Beer Barrell challenge - next year. |
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The Official Start, just round the corner from the pub. |
The rain turned out to be just showers and I only had to
don waterproofs a couple of more times during the day. The one weather element
that dominated was the wind. Constant, cold, battering wind once I gained some
height. The waterfall at Kinder Downfall was in fact an Upfall; this is
actually normal for here, I don’t think the water ever reaches the bottom. At one point near Bleaklow Head it was
difficult to stand.
![]() |
Kinder Downfall, where the water flows uphill. |
I was warned by the other AW to expect bogs. In fact bogs
are a constant theme along the entire length of the walk and day one was to be
my introduction to them. However, much of the route over the bogs and peat hags
is now paved with repurposed mill floor stones and this made for a fast
crossing to the A57 and beyond. Stepping off the stones was potentially lethal
at certain points and some of the stones had that Cardiff pavement habit of collapsing
under foot and spattering your back with black bog water.
![]() |
Don't step off the pavement... |
The guidebook promised 16 miles; the Garmin said 18; it
felt like 18. The terrain here is very
different from my training grounds down south.
The paths are more rocky and unstable, meaning that you have to
constantly fight to keep your balance. This together with the wind meant that
my walking speed was slower than in training. All in all a tiring day but as
expected.
Catherine had set up camp in the rather quaint little
campsite in Crowden by the time I rolled in at about 4:30pm. The teapot had enough brew left in it to
almost fill my pint mug. Catherine had cycled 27 miles taking in the tea room
at Eyam – famous for its plague, the village that is not the tea room.
Tomorrow promises to be an easier day with a short
section of just 12 miles according to the guidebook.
The plans for a daily blog failed on day 1 because there
is no wi-fi and no phone signal here. I
did write this in “word” however, as per Shelaghs sage advice. Now uploaded via my mobile.
Garmin says:
18.4 miles; Max speed 6.2mph; moving average 3.3mph;
overall average 2.6mph; time 7hrs 12 minutes with 1 hr 36 stopped. That seems
like a lot of stops but that includes stopping to don / doff waterproofs,
taking photos and snack breaks.
AW
Aha, so it's not just me that finds a discrepancy between the guide book mileage and the GPS. I feel vindicated! I remember the bogs of the C2C, vividly! Hummock hopping became a routine activity, carefully selecting the hummocks that would withstand your hop and keep you out of bog was a finely tuned skill by the end. looks like your bogs are significant, though. I'm sure you are glad of the mill stones. Now for Day 2 ...
ReplyDeleteI think there are statute miles and Garmin miles. Just like there are minutes and Northern Line minutes. Garmin like to flatter which is fine by me!
DeleteAh a blog about a bog, splendid stuff!
ReplyDeleteBetter blog title would have been "one man and his bog". Someone beat me to that. Good to hear from you, keep following...
Delete