Day 8 Hawes to The Tan Hill Inn. The highest Pub in England.

I should be careful what I wish for. After yesterday’s hot and humid weather, today it was a different season. I set off in full waterproofs and added hat and gloves shortly afterwards. Number 1 gloves mind, not number 2. I have number 2 with me but was not that pessimistic this morning. I also have number 3 gloves but they are at home, I was definitely not that pessimistic. Number 1 gloves can be used inside number 2 gloves if it’s really inclement.

Whilst it threatened rain it didn’t actually downpour but the waterproofs were a godsend against the bitingly cold wind on the climb up to Great Shunner Fell. The summit shelter provided a welcome windbreak for my first brew stop.

Great Shunner Fell summit

Leaving the summit there were good views of Swaledale and the village of Thwaite to the East where I was heading. Not sure how one should pronounce Thwaite; I have heard local landlords refer to the beer of the same name as Twat’s… I am guessing they do not do that for the village.

 

Swaledale from Great Shunner Fell

Approaching Thwaite

Thwaite was a very small hamlet but had the only tea room / café actually on the route that I have passed so far. I was tempted to go in but decided against it as I was already behind schedule for my 4:00pm pick up at Tan Hill. At least I thought I was behind schedule; it wasn’t until much later that I discovered that my Garmin was playing tricks on me, as Garmins tend to do every now and then.

 

I then followed a very pleasant track, what I would call a balcony track along the side of a steep valley, Swaledale. Given the debris lying around I suspect this was an old miner’s track and certainly mine workings and spoil heaps could be seen on the other side of the valley.

Next up was Keld where we were to camp this evening.  Temptations were thrust upon me as I entered the outskirts of Keld; I could see Gloria from the path already perched in her spot. It was so tempting to blow out the next 7 miles and head for her comfort.  The plan was for me to walk to Tan Hill and for Catherine to pick me up at 4:00 before returning to Keld. It was about this time that I discovered the Garmin glitch; it wasn’t 7 miles, it was only 4.  I had put the campsite as a waypoint into the file but had not intended Garmin to add it to the route which it had done. Consequently I arrived at Tan Hill early, at 3:10pm. Not to worry though, the Tan Hill Inn was welcoming enough and did a fine pint of Theakstons.

Gloria, just about visible in the centre of ghe picture

Approaching The Tan Hill inn from the Pennine Way

The Tan Hill Inn

We are now in our camping spot with fine views back towards Kisdon Force and Swaledale. The campsite here is of particular interest to us because it came up for sale about 10 years ago and we did some fag packet calculations as to whether we should buy it. The answer was pretty straightforward in that I reckoned that my future pension would be supporting other people’s holidays whilst I spent my time cleaning the toilets.  However, the new owners have certainly made a good go of it, expanding the operation to just about the whole village with additional camping fields and a tea room.  We are in a new field, with the showers and washing up facilities in shipping containers lower down the village. The showers are excellent, probably the best yet, but it is a bit daunting having to walk through the village with your washing kit and clean clothes.  Hats off to the new owners.

Day 8 of 16 walking days, I make that half way but the guidebook says that that milestone will have to wait until tomorrow.  Tomorrow we leave Yorkshire and enter Teesdale in County Durham.

Guidebook said: 16.5 miles.

Garmin says: 17 miles; 5.9mph max; 3.1mph moving average; 2,5mph overall average; 6hrs 49minutes with 1hr 25 stoppages.

Black faced Sheep wondering why on earth I would want to walk the Pennine Way

 AW