Day 5 Ickornshaw to Malham. Muck spreading season on rolling pasture.

This was a milestone section because I said to myself from the beginning that if I can survive the first 5 days of back to back walks all the way to Malham, then I can make it all the way.  I survived, actually better than just "survived", I have thoroughly enjoyed the walking so far. I had also travelled to Malham many times in the past, mostly in the 1970s and 80s, by car, minibus, bus, train / hitchhike but never on foot and so it is a village that I am familiar with. 

Wainwright said of this walk that it was “mostly muck and manure.. undulating farmlands… contented cows on low green hills”. I would say that those descriptions still hold true today. The route crosses the Aire Gap, the lowlands that separate the high Gritstone moors from the limestone of the Yorkshire Dales. These lowlands are fertile and most of the farming appears to be dairy taking advantage of the lush grassy pastures.  Consequently, there was indeed a lot of muck and manure and at least one farmer was in the process of filling his muck spreader with the contents of his slurry pit as I ambled past. Nearly put me off my lunch.

There were cows in abundance, often sitting across the path chewing the cud and showing me no interest as I told them “don’t get up, I’ll walk round”. I saw one very large bull which was a bit unnerving at first sight but I needn’t have worried because he was too busy chasing the cows around in a very “excited” manner to be bothered by me.

Wainwright also said that Lothersdale was “sweet”. Not sure I would use that term but it did have a very picturesque mill with the usual chimney, which are actually very common in these parts. However, Lothersdale is the last Pennine mill town I will pass through going North.

Lothersdale with Mill, also has the largest waterwheel in England too

I joined the Leeds and Liverpool canal for a short while, walking along the tow path and under bridges past narrow boats. This made a welcome change from tramping across peat bogs or green pasture ankle deep in cow slurry.

 

Leeds and Liverpool canal

I know I was pretty mean about the way-marking provided by the relevant Yorkshire authorities but I have since learned that that was West Yorkshire. Today I was in North Yorkshire and the Yorkshire Dales National Park and the way-marking was the best yet. Both authorities had their own small round signs and had deployed them frequently along the route. I came to the conclusion that as West Yorkshire had a boundary with Lancashire that was the root cause of the absence of way-marking in that region, pointing people back to Lancashire, “recent” conflicts obviously still raw.

 

Way-marker

Gargrave was as I remembered it from my youth but sadly the coal fired chip shop was now a restaurant, and my guess is that fish, chips and mushy peas were not on the menu.

 

The final mile into Malham did not disappoint with views of Malham Cove and Gordale Scar above the village.

Malham and Malham Cove

I met a couple of fellow wayfarers today, both of whom were carrying more weight than I was and were very envious of my support crew. One of them was backpacking and we discussed the need to only pack essentials; he had ruthlessly only packed essentials but after 5 days of carrying it had decided that some things were more essential than others and was off to find a post office to lighten his load. I have not seen the young backpacker I met on day two since I left him having lunch; I can only think that he is still behind me somewhere, cursing my small, light, pack.

 

Catherine took the opportunity of our location today to nip across country and visit her mum which meant I had a short wait in Malham for a ride to our camp site for the next two nights in Settle about 7 miles off the route.  I spent my time wisely, taking advantage of one of the two cafes for a late afternoon snack and pint of tea then a wander around the National Park information centre making use of their free wi-fi to reply to some of your very welcome comments.

So, 5 days in, 11 to go and all is well. Milestone achieved.

Guide book said 17 miles.

Garmin says: 18.4 miles; 6mph max; 3.2mph moving average; 2.5mph overall average; 7hrs 18 minutes with 1hr 34mins stoppages. 

Signpost in Gargrave on the Leeds and Liverpoole canal

The Buck Inn, Malham. I went to the cafe next door.